Author: Kellie

In their natural environments, Venus flytraps live through winters every year. When the temperature drops Venus flytraps go dormant (similar to hibernation). Venus flytraps need dormancy to remain healthy.

Venus flytraps must go dormant for 3 to 4 months, if they do not experience this period of inactivity the plant will end up dying. Venus flytraps go dormant when they experience cold weather of less than 45F (7C) for a minimum of three months. There are methods to achieve dormancy indoors and outdoors.

Some areas have the perfect temperatures for Venus flytraps to go dormant in the winter. However, not all of us (including me) live in an area with cold winters. In this article, I will share different methods and a guide to Venus flytrap dormancy.

Venus flytraps can live a few years without dormancy, but they will continue to weaken and eventually die. If you want to ensure your plant stays healthy, make sure it goes dormant every single year. The process is not very challenging and I have methods that work for every climate.

Venus Flytrap Dormancy Guide

The first step to getting started with Venus flytrap dormancy is to learn the basics.

20-45 F is the optimal temperature range for Venus flytraps to go dormant during the winter. To achieve dormancy, Venus flytraps must be exposed to temperatures below 45 F for at least 3-4 weeks. After starting dormancy, Venus flytraps must remain in cold temperatures for 3-4 months.

The table above has some critical information that you will need to determine the best method to make your Venus flytrap go dormancy.

Overall, there are three options to achieve dormancy and these instructions will help you determine the most suitable option.

• Outdoor dormancy: If you are able to grow your Venus flytraps outdoors in the winter and your area has temperatures of below 45F for 3-4 months, then outdoor dormancy might be the best option. The only other consideration besides having a cold winter is the extreme temperatures. Avoid growing your venus flytrap outdoors when temperatures drop substantially. Temperatures below 20 F can sometimes harm Venus flytraps. Consider indoor dormancy if you believe temperatures can be too extreme during the winter months.

• Indoor dormancy: Whether grown indoors or outdoors, Venus flytraps will require cold temperatures. Venus flytraps exposed to chilly temperatures in unheated garages, basements, and indoor patios can go dormant with great success. Also, cold indoor locations provide some protection from extreme temperatures, snow storms, etc.

• Refrigerator dormancy: As a last resort you can place your venus flytrap in the fridge to make it go dormant. I only recommend this option if your location does not have a winter season. There is a method

It is ok if the temperatures rise to 50 F or above during the day or if there is a warm day in the middle of the winter. Temperature is never consistent in nature. Your Venus flytrap should remain dormant unless the temperature changes for a considerable amount of time.

The Best Timing for Venus Flytrap Dormancy

Venus fly traps go dormant whenever the winter starts.

The best time for Venus flytraps to go dormant is during YOUR winter. There is no need to time dormancy in any specific months. You can follow the instructions in the guides below when you are ready to start the dormancy process.

The most important timing consideration is consistency. Venus flytraps must go dormant every year at above a similar time. if you decide to induce dormancy, make sure you can continue that cycle every 12 months ago and again.

How to Identify Dormant Venus Fly traps

Once Venus fly traps start to go dormant, they change in appearance.

Dormant Venus fly traps have a similar appearance than dead plants. They loose multiple leaves, shrink in size, and stop growing for several months. If your are unsure your plant is dead or just dormant, continue to care for it until the end of dormancy.

A good rule of thumb is that dead Venus fly traps often look mushy and have no green leaves. And dormant Venus fly traps can only be in such state if there is cold weather.

Venus Flytrap Dormancy Outdoors

Venus flytraps going dormant outdoors is the optimal scenario. They naturally grow in the states of Soth Carolina and North Caroline where they have plenty of access to cold temperatures during the winter months.

For Venus flytraps growing outdoors already the process is very easy. Just leave your plant outside and the weather will trigger dormancy. As soon as the temperatures start to drop and the days become shorter, Venus flytraps will start going dormancy. You do not have to do anything else to trigger dormancy.

Venus flytraps go dormant after 2-3 weeks of chilly temperatures. You will notice some differences as your plant will likely look down and lose several leaves. It is completely normal. Do not worry too much and do not toss it. Dead and dormant venus flytraps look alike.

During the dormancy months, I recommend trimming dead leaves and following the complete care instructions I outline later in this article. Avoid moving the plant and creating additional stress and let the weather do its magic.

Venus flytraps will exit dormancy slowly as days become longer and temperatures start to rise. Once Venus flytraps are out of dormancy the spring will prompt them to start producing flowers and reproduce.

Venus Flytrap Dormancy Indoors

Venus flytraps can easily go dormant indoors as long as temperatures drop below 45 F.

For indoor dormancy, place your Venus flytrap in a cold location, such as a windowsill, an unheated garage, porch, basement, or any room that has a suitable temperature range (below 45 F). Venus flytraps will slowly go dormant after being exposed to chilly temperatures.

It usually takes 2-3 weeks to see the changes in your plant. The plant will likely die down and lose many leaves.

During the dormancy period, you can provide artificial or natural light to your plants. Technically, when Venus flytraps are completely dormant due to cold weather, they won’t require light. However, it is hard to know if your plant is 100% dormant when you can’t control the weather. For that reason, I recommend providing some lighting during dormancy to ensure your plant remains healthy.

After 3 months you can make your Venus flytrap exit dormancy. You can also wait longer 4 to 5-month dormancy are also acceptable.

Your plant will exit dormancy once it has access to warmer weather and more light. However, sudden changes can harm your plant. Slowly increase the lighting for your plant for a few weeks (like an extra hour every couple of days). Then, slowly start removing the plant from the cold location.

Once your plant is growing again in a warmer environment you will see significant changes as it starts to reflourish.

Refrigerator Dormancy

This method is reserved for extreme circumstances. For anyone that does not live in an area that has a cold enough winter, the dormancy method is really the only choice besides skipping dormancy.

If you are looking to keep your plant alive for many years (even decades), it is time to evaluate an alternate option. You can induce dormancy by placing Venus flytraps in the fridge. You can place your Venus flytrap and its pot in the fridge or remove all soil from your plant and place it in the fridge. These are the steps you need to follow to complete the process:

Start by getting some sulfur-based fungicide. Physan is a good option. Here is a link to the product on Amazon https://amzn.to/3vr9lGu It’s perfectly safe and not too expensive.

Then, make space in your fridge. Your plant will need to be there for at least three months before exiting dormancy.

Method 1- Keeping The Pot

If you have enough space in your fridge I recommend keeping your plant in its pot. However, keep in mind that they can take up significant space depending on the size of the pot and the number of plants you own.

Materials

• Space in your fridge
• Distilled water
• An air-tight container big enough to hold your potted plant
• Scissors for trimming
• Optional: Sulfur-based fungicide and spray bottle

Instructions

1. Remove all black and dead leaves from your plant. Also, remove any foliage from the soil.
2. Water your plant so the soil is humid
3. Optional: spray your plants with fungicide throughout
4. Grab a large Ziploc bag air-tight container and place your whole plant with its pot inside.
5. Seal the containers. Keeping it open will dry out the soil almost immediately and end up killing your plant.
6. Place your plant inside the fridge (not the freezer)
7. Keep the plants in the fridge and check on them every few days and watch out for mold, rotting, and not enough water.
8. Water your plant when the soil is starting to dry out, but avoid overwatering
9. After 3 months remove your plants from the fridge and reintroduce them to light and warmer temperatures slowly

Method 2 – Unpotting Your Plant

This method does not require much space for your plants but is slightly more challenging.

Required Materials

• Distilled water
• Long fibered sphagnum moss
• Scissors for trimming
• Fresh soil
• Space in your fridge
• Optional: sulfur-based fungicide and spray bottle

Instructions

1. Unpot your Venus flytrap removing all the soil from the roots
2. Trim dead leaves and roots
3. Optional: spray your plant with a fungicide
4. Grab sphagnum moss and moisten it with distilled water
5. Wrap your Venus flytrap with the moss and place it inside an air-tight container like a Ziploc bag
6. Seal the container and place your plant in the fridge.
7. Keep the plants in the fridge and check on them every few days and watch out for mold, rotting, and not enough water.
8. Water your plant when the moss starts to dry out by spraying distilled water.
9. After 3 months remove your plants from the fridge and plant them into fresh soil
10. Slowly reintroduce your plant to warm weather and light. I recommend taking 2-3 weeks slowly transition your plant from the fridge into its growing space.

Skipping Venus Flytrap Dormancy

Venus flytrap dormancy is an essential process that allows the plant to rest and remain strong in the growing season. Venus flytraps should go dormant every single year. However, it is not always possible to provide an appropriate environment for dormancy.

When Venus flytraps skip dormancy, their growth becomes stagnant compared to other Venus flytraps growing rapidly after dormancy. Without dormancy, Venus flytraps are also less likely to propagate. Venus flytraps that skip 2-3 yearly dormancy periods in a row weaken and eventually die.

Venus flytraps can skip dormancy as long as it is not a recurring practice. The plant will exhibit a slow growth rate but will eventually recover as it goes dormant in the years to come.

Skipping dormancy is a suitable choice in some specific circumstances, such as:

• When growing seedlings or leaf cuttings/ pullings
• When you just got a new plant
• When you are a short-term Venus flytrap owner

This article covers the best strategies of how to skip venus flytrap dormancy if that is your only option.

Care During Venus Flytrap Dormancy

Care during dormancy is a bit trickier than during growing seasons. Here are some tips to ensure they complete dormancy healthy.

• Watering: Continue to water your plant often, but be ready to lower the watering frequency. Dormant Venus flytraps consume less water. Make sure you feel the soil after watering to ensure it is only moist but not damped. Overwatering is a very common cause of death during the winter months.
• Fertilizers: Do not fertilize Venus flytraps during dormancy. Generally is not recommended to fertilize these plants if you are a novice, but dormancy is discouraged for all.
• Feeding: Avoid feeding your Venus flytrap during this period. If it catches a bug on its own, that is ok. But, do not feed it manually. Your plant is in a resting state and it does not require any additional nutrients.
• Trimming: Carefully trim and remove dead leaves as they wither. removing dead leaves can help avoid the presence of mold and algae.
• Repotting: Avoid repotting your plant in the middle or start of dormancy. However, repotting at the end of dormancy is a common and useful practice. Wait until your plant is about to exit dormancy to repot. This guide will teach you how to repot successfully.

Also, I recommend reading my complete venus flytrap care guide to ensure you don’t make any mistakes during dormancy. During the winter months, your plant will be more sensitive to any mistakes.

Dead vs Dormant Venus Flytrap

During dormancy, Venus flytraps change significantly. The plant reduces in size and it losses most of its leaves.

An increase in black leaves is completely normal during this period. Do not be overly worried about the changes in your plant. Some plants will experience drastic changes and others very mild ones.

The worst thing you can do is overreact and try to change things in your setup. Instead, I recommend following the dormancy care instructions I shared and ensuring you are providing the optimal environment. Continue to be patient and wait as the weeks and months go by. When the temperatures start to rise you will notice significant changes in your plant. New leaves will start to grow and your plant might even produce some flowers.

Selecting the wrong pot or growing container for your Venus flytrap can harm or even kill it. In this article, I will share a guide for selecting the best pots for your Venus flytrap.

As a general rule, plastic, styrofoam, or glazed ceramic pots are suitable for Venus flytraps, while terra cotta, concrete, or unglazed ceramic pots should be avoided. Venus flytraps prefer tall pots 4-6 inches in diameter and at least 4 inches in depth.

The size, color, and material of the pot can affect your plant’s health. I experimented with several types of pots over the years and have followed many different pieces of advice. This article will share a guide to picking the best containers for your Venus flytrap.

When selecting a pot for your Venus flytrap, make sure to follow these considerations:

The Best Containers and Pots for Venus Flytraps

I have tried several pots over the years and found some that work great for Venus flytraps and other carnivorous plants.

These pots are great for Venus flytraps: https://amzn.to/3IYVGKU.

The link will take you to Amazon.com, where you can check the price and choose a color. They are affordable (usually less than 20 dollars), have proper drainage, are tall enough to promote growth, and the plastic is safe for your plants. For the size, I recommend the 5.5 or 6.5-inch pots for a single plant and the 7.5-inch pot for multiple plants. Also, choose the white pots for hot outdoor locations for better insulation.

The product links I provide are for reference, as many other pots can fulfill the requirements of Venus flytraps 😉

In the upcoming sections, I will explain the importance of selecting the appropriate material, size, color, and drainage for your pot, including some tips from a fellow carnivorous plant hobbyist. The information will help you select the best pot for your plant! 🙂

You can repurpose containers and use them as plant pots or buy some in gardening shops. I grow several different carnivorous plants and like to keep the pots uniform.

Container Material

Venus flytraps are very picky in which soil, water, and pot they require. They are intolerant to minerals and nutrients, making finding a suitable growing container difficult.

The best pot materials for Venus flytraps are plastic, styrofoam, or glazed ceramic pots. These materials provide insulation from extreme temperatures and are harmless to your plants. They do not leak any minerals into the soil. It is not common to find styrofoam plant pots, but some people repurpose styrofoam cups as pots for small plants. They are an inexpensive option, and they provide the best insulation (remember to add drainage holes).

Over time terracotta, unglazed ceramic, concrete, or metal containers leach harmful minerals into the soil. Those added minerals build up in the ground and can eventually start killing your Venus flytrap. An increase in black leaves or the appearance of yellow leaves is sometimes a sign of mineral burns caused by using the incorrect pot material, soil, water, or a combination of several.

Glass pots are acceptable containers. They do not leak any type of element into the soil, but insulation can be a challenge. Make sure to avoid extreme temperatures if using metal or glass pots.

Pot Size

Choose a pot that matches the size of the Venus flytrap, but opt for larger pots rather than small ones. Small pots can restrict your plant’s growth. An adult Venus flytrap grows best in the following dimensions:

• Pot diameter: 4 to 6 inches (10.5cm – 15.2 cm)
• Pot depth: Over 4 inches (10.2 cm)

Young Venus flytraps that are only 1 to 2 years old can grow in 2 to 3 inches in diameter pots.

If you wish to grow multiple Venus flytraps in the same pot, choose large pots of at least 6 inches in diameter. Currently, I have 4 Venus flytraps growing in an 8-inch pot. They are comfortable in the space, and they make the pot look full and interesting.

Drainage

Venus flytraps require a very moist environment to stay healthy; however, they can be prone to root rot when drainage is not optimal.

Always employ a pot with drainage holes to grow Venus flytraps. The drainage holes will allow you to water your plant from the bottom and prevent rotting, molding (this is how you can get rid mold) , and algae.

It is possible to grow a Venus flytrap in a container without drainage, like a terrarium, for example, but it is challenging. As a beginner carnivorous plant grower, I wouldn’t suggest experimenting with terrariums just yet. 

Color

The color you choose for your pot is not as critical as all other factors. However, you should consider the weather in your area.

Choosing a light color pot can help with insulation in an extremely sunny location. I live in Arizona and try to use white pots for all my outdoor plants.

Airflow

Closed containers, such as domes or terrariums, can be very harmful to Venus flytraps. These plants appreciate the extra humidity, but they are prone to rotting in soggy environments. Without the appropriate drainage and airflow, Venus terrariums often kill the plant or cause mold or algae issues.

Additional Considerations

Water Trays

To water Venus flytraps appropriately, you will most likely need water a tray. Most pots come with their own trays, but if needed, you can use any container as a tray. I use these large plastic trays to hold multiple of my plants.

Overall, you want to avoid materials such as terracotta, clay, unglazed ceramic, and metal for your water tray.

Soil

Now, let’s select an appropriate potting medium. Venus flytraps can’t grow in standard compost or potting soil due to the richness in nutrients. Instead, you must employ a mixture of these nutritionless elements:

• Long fibered sphagnum moss
• Peat moss
• Silica sand
• Perlite

To make Venus flytrap soil combines one type of moss with a draining agent (sand or perlite). For example, you can employ a 2:1 ratio of peat moss and perlite. Or a 2:1 ratio of long-fibered sphagnum moss with sand. The ratio depends on personal preference, but a 2:1 or 4:1 ratio are common choices.

When selecting the soil, make you find the correct type. Here is a guide that lists the best soil options.

It is acceptable to employ pure peat or sphagnum moss as the ground for Venus flytrap. However, it is encourage to add sand or perlite to provide better drainage and aeration.

You can buy the ingredients listed above and make your own Venus flytrap soil or buy it online. If you would like to make it yourself, this article has complete instructions.

Here is the amazon link of the carnivorous plant soil I use for my carnivorous plants. It is affordable and very effective in keeping your plants healthy: https://amzn.to/3Nhy4qM

Venus Flytrap Care 101

Growing a Venus flytrap in the right setup ensures your plant will stay healthy and thrive. This list contains the most critical considerations when growing Venus flytraps. Read my complete care guide here.

The Best Containers for Carnivorous Plants

If you have other carnivorous plants make sure to check my guides on pots and growing containers for Sundews and Pitcher plants:

The Best Pots for Sundews Plus Potting Guide

The Best Pots for Pitcher Plants Plus Potting Guide

There is a long list of food you can and can’t feed your Venus flytrap. I have grown Venus flytraps for over three years, and over time I have learned what works and what doesn’t. In this article, I share my advice.

Insects and spiders are suitable food options for Venus flytraps. The best feed alternatives are small live bugs that contain high nutrients. Freeze-dried insects are also an alternative. Always avoid feeding human food to Venus flytraps.

Venus flytraps do not need to consume insects to survive. However, consuming prey gives them extra nutrients, which fuel the plant to grow and divide. I have noticed many positive effects in Venus flytraps that consume insects frequently.

Make sure you choose an appropriate meal for your plant by learning about suitable options. Read each of the lists below for a successful feeding!

List of Food Options for Venus Flytrap

As you might notice from the list below, many arthropods are suitable to feed for Venus flytraps. Also, some less conventional options include plant food. Make sure to read the text below the list to learn which are the best and most practical alternatives for your specific scenario.

• Flies
• Cricket
• Mealworms
• Bloodworms
• Fruit flies
• Gnats
• Ants
• Rollie pollies
• Beetles
• Spiders
• Ladybugs
• Grasshoppers
• Mosquitos
• Fish pellets (link to buy)
• Diluted MaxSea fertilizer (of these specifications)

The list above is not comprehensive. It contains a list of many suitable food options, but almost any bug will do. Still, I tried to keep the list short and emphasize the most common insects you can find around your home, garden, or in park. The trick is to find an insect that is small enough to fit entirely inside the trap. Also, preferably, you want to choose food that contains a lot of soft tissue and little to no hard shells. I buy these freeze-dried bugs in the pet store as they are very affordable, can last you for years, and are extremely nutritious. The link will take you to Amazon to review the prize, they are usually less than $10.

Do Venus Flytraps eat flies? Venus flytraps consume flies in real life. Venus flytraps attract flies with sweet nectar and trap them with their leaves. Then, they secrete enzymes to drown and consume the flies. Besides flies, Venus flytraps also consume many other types of insects and spiders.

Cricket, mealworms, and bloodworms are top food options for Venus flytraps and most carnivorous plants. They contain high protein content and a lot of soft tissue. All three can be purchased online or at pet stores. Generally, there are two options: live and freeze-dried bugs.

Can venus flytraps eat dead bugs? Dead bugs are suitable to feed Venus flytraps. The process of employing dead feed is slightly more challenging than using live bugs. Dead bugs can be found in gardens or homes and bought in pet stores; some standard options are crickets, mealworms, bloodworms, and fruit flies.

Live and dead bugs will work for Venus flytraps. Both options are almost equally nutritious. However, employing dead bugs is less natural. Therefore it requires you to add a few extra steps to the feeding process to trick your plant into consuming a dead bug. For example, you will have to rehydrate the insect with distilled water.

What You Should Never Feed Venus Flytrap

With so much misinformation out there about what to feed Venus flytraps. I felt highly compelled to emphasize what you should never feed your Venus flytrap:

• Hamburger
• Chicken
• Sausage
• Salami
• Raw meat
• Candy
• Fruit
• Steak
• Hotdog
• Cheese
• Any animal that is not an insect or a spider

Can Venus flytraps eat human food? Human food is not appropriate for Venus flytraps or any carnivorous plants. Venus flytraps won’t be able to consume such complex food. Instead, after an unsuccessful digestion attempt, the leaf withers, and the food rots, attracting mold and bacteria.

Can Venus flytraps eat animals other than insects? Venus flytraps can digest meat from tiny animals such as rodents, birds, or frogs. However, this behavior is not very common. The diet of Venus flytraps in the wild is made up primarily of insects.

Never attempt to feed any animals besides insects or spiders to your Venus flytrap. Even though they can digest meat, the plant will most likely be unsuccessful at digesting the whole animal. And you will end up with a rotting trap.

Insects You Should Avoid Feeding to Venus Flytraps

Venus flytrap can consume almost any insect. However, some bugs are not the most suitable options. Here is a list of which ones to avoid:

• Snails
• Slugs
• Caterpillars

Snails are not recommended to use as food for Venus flytraps. The plant won’t be able to digest the shell. And, only tiny snails will fit properly inside a Venus flytrap.

Can Venus flytraps eat slugs or caterpillars? Venus flytraps can consume slugs and caterpillars, but these insects present a challenge for Venus flytraps. Strong and desperate slugs or caterpillars can potentially eat their way out of the trap. Also, if the bug scapes, it can end up consuming the plant.

Venus Flytrap Feeding Instructions

Without proper instructions, it is not recommended to feed Venus flytraps. Feeding your plant incorrectly can end up harming it. For that reason, you must make sure to go over all of this information.

Venus flytrap capture and consume bugs to extract key nutrients. Such nutrients provide an extra boost for the plant but are not required for the plant’s survival, as most food is produced through photosynthesis.

Outdoors Venus flytraps can consume their own prey. And, sometimes indoors, they might have access to the occasional insect. Venus flytraps do not need a large number of insects to stay healthy. Sporadically feeding a venus flytrap can make a big difference, as long as done correctly.

Feeding Venus flytraps is a straightforward process that can improve the health of your plant if done correctly. These tips will help you ensure you do not make any beginner mistakes:

• Always employ small insects that are a maximum of 1/2 of the size of the trap.
• There is no need to feed venus fly traps when they live outdoors and have access to insects
• Only feed one trap in the whole plant at a time
• Feed a single bug once every 2-6 weeks
• Avoid feeding venus fly traps during dormancy

The list below outlines the steps to feed a live bug to a Venus flytrap. You can also watch the video to get a live demonstration of the feeding process.

1. Select an appropriate insect; one that has high nutritional content and can fit inside the trap of your plant.
2. Locate the trigger hairs in your Venus flytrap. They are three thin filaments in each lobe of the trap.
3. Use tweezers or your hands to grab the insect.
4. Place the bug inside the lobes of your Venus flytrap. Make sure the bug is placed in the center.
5. Brush the trigger hairs in the trap at least 2 times. After two touches the Venus flytrap should close on the insect.
6. Wait until the trap closes and monitor it for the next 2-5 minutes. After a few minutes, the trap should be fully close.
7. The venus flytrap start digesting the bug, it won’t reopen until at least a few days or a couple of weeks.

Leaves in Venus flytraps are ready to capture bugs when they just open. Then, after closing and reopening multiple times, leaves become exhausted and stop closing. When a leaf does not close, it is not a sign of poor health. It is completely normal behavior.

This article contains a summary of how to feed a Venus flytrap. However, there are more details to keep in consideration. Read the complete venus flytrap feeding guide to get all the information you need. And, check out my YouTube channel for more live examples: Venus Flytrap World.

How to Avoid Black Leaves After Feeding Venus Flytraps

Sometimes after feeding a venus flytrap, their leaves turn black. Why does that happen? And how should you prevent it? Here is an explanation.

Venus flytraps, like any other plants, shed leaves. When leaves get very old, they start to blacken or brown on the edges. Then, after a few days, the leaf ends up withering completely and turning to a dark, deep black color.

Even though most leaves wither due to natural causes, feeding a venus flytrap incorrectly can cause black leaves.

Employing a very large bug, overfeeding, or feeding during the incorrect season can cause black leaves in Venus flytraps. When the plant cannot digest its prey, it will let its leaves wither to save energy. Black leaves can be prevented by following certain care considerations.

Black leaves can be avoided by always employing an insect that fits entirely inside a trap, also by only feeding one trap at a time, and never feeding Venus flytraps during dormancy or when they are sick.

After feeding your plant, monitor the leaf you fed until digestion is complete. Then, you can verify the leaf remains healthy and ready for more bugs.

Other practices besides the feeding process can cause black leaves in Venus flytraps. For example, employing the incorrect water type, exerting too much stress, or unnecessary repotting can cause your plant to lose traps.

This section covered a short overview of the matter. But, there is a full article that can help you avoid black leaves from feeding your plant. Here is a link to that resource: Do Venus Flytraps Die After They Eat (plus easy fixes)

I love growing carnivorous plants and hope you can always keep your plants thriving. Here are some key articles you can read to ensure your plants stay healthy.

For general Venus flytrap care, you can download this care sheet: Venus Flytrap Care 101.

If you plan on growing Venus flytraps indoors, make sure you read this guide: How to Successfully Grow Venus Flytraps Indoors.

As a proud Sundew owner, I like to give my plants code names to identify them and to have a bit of fun.

I have made an extensive list of some name ideas for Drosera plants. Some names are associated with the name Drosera, others with Sundew or something in between. I hope the list serves you as an inspiration to name your plant. Some names are inspired by types of Sundew, such as binata, cape sundew, or spoon-leaf.

Here is a list of 49 Sundew name ideas:

1. Dewie or dew
2. Sunny D
3. Bed head
4. Mist or Misty
5. Tangela (for the Pokemon fans)
6. Mr Dew
7. Sticky or Stick
8. Gum
9. Bug killer
10. Flubber
11. Crazy hair
12. Risky Business
13. Bug Threat
14. Adhesive
15. Glue
16. Molasses
17. Sunny or Sun
18. [Inser bug name] Terminator or just Terminator
19. Octopus
20. Little Tree (great match for cape sundew)
21. Mr. Palm
22. Tentacles
23. Medusa
24. Gorgon or Gorgona
25. Adele
26. Capi
27. Forrest
28. Curls or Curly
29. Lollipop
30. Fork (great match for binata)
31. Y Plant or Why Plant (also great for binata)
32. Death wish
33. Red or Reddish
34. Magenta
35. Drop or droplets
36. Savage or Savage Flower
37. Gnarly
38. Ant Eater
39. Dron or Drona
40. Drooti
41. Droo
42. Drorit
43. Sera (short from Drosera 😉
44. Sphagetti
45. String
46. Snake
47. Sol
48. Spot
49. Sue

I included several names that are a perfect fit for Cape Sundew since it is one of my favorite Sundews. Here is a picture of mine flowering a few months back.

The scientific name for Sundew plants is Drosera. The names Drosera or Sundew are used interchangeably. Currently, there are over 190 species of Drosera growing all over the world. Some common species are the Cape Sundew, Drosera Binata, Spoon-leaf Sundew, and Drosera Adelae.

Besides the scientific name, many people consider naming or taking their plant to create a connection and keep track of their needs. After choosing a name, make sure to write down essential care details, such as:

• What variety do you own?
• When did you get it?
• Last repot date
• Dormancy requirements
• General state/ health of the plant through the seasons

After exploring the names, make sure to read the sections below and learn more about Sundew care, as keeping them alive and healthy can be a bit of a challenge.

Sundew Care for Beginners

This short guide explains the essential consideration you should keep in mind when growing Drosera. Read over all the items and pay close attention to the soil, watering, and lighting requirements, as those are incredibly critical.

Soil: Avoid standard soil mixes at all costs. Instead, employ carnivorous plant potting media. There are many different types of carnivorous plant media, but they have one thing in common: little to no mineral content.

You can buy carnivorous plant soil online or make it yourself. You must combine pure perlite or sphagnum moss with silica sand and/or perlite to make the soil. Here is a link to high-quality carnivorous plant soil you can buy online.

Lighting: Sundews need sunny environments to stay healthy. They can grow well under artificial or natural light as long as they have exposure to extended hours of lighting. Provide a minimum of 6 hours of light exposure every day. And, if possible, aim for 12+ hours of light. If you plan to employ artificial lighting, here are a few lights I have used for my Sundews and other carnivorous plants:

• Small plant light for 1-4 plants: https://amzn.to/2RsGlxr
• T8 LED light fixture for multiple plants (6500k Cool White): https://amzn.to/3uWoeh2

Watering requirements: Water your sundew with reverse osmosis water, distilled water, or rainwater exclusively. Never water your sundew with tap water or bottled water. Drosera needs water with little to no mineral content.

Consider employing the water tray method to keep the soil wet all the time. You can get the full instructions on effectively watering your plant in this article: Sundew Watering.

Feeding: Sundews grow larger and healthier when they have access to bugs. Sundews living outdoors capture their own food, but indoor plants might require your help. Use live bugs or rehydrated dead bugs to feed your plant every 2-4 weeks.

Use of Fertilizers: Mixing fertilizers and sundews is not a good idea. Avoid fertilizing Sundews to prevent damage. If you want to promote growth, consider feeding but not fertilizing.

Repotting: Avoid repotting your Sundew unless it is strictly necessary. There is no need to repot a Sundew every year; most varieties can live in the same pot for several years.

Trimming: Like all plants out there, Sundews shed leaves every once in a while. You can remove dead leaves by cutting them out. However, trimming is not required. Also, as a general recommendation, you must wait until the leaf has withered entirely before removing it.

Humidity needs: High humidity environments are optimal for Sundews. For best results, keep humidity levels between 40% and 70%. A humidifier is a practical solution to increase the humidity indoors.

Misting: There is no need to mist Sundews, and it can be counterproductive.

Dormancy: Some sundews require dormancy, which is a period of inactivity. Please find out the dormancy needs of your specific Sundew to keep it healthy. Plants that go dormant might require specific temperatures or lighting variations.

Stress: Avoid touching the leaves of your plant. It not only causes stress but also removes the dew drops. And, those droplets are very useful to capture and extract key nutrients from prey.

Fun Projects With Sundew Plants

• Feeding: Feeding your Sundew is very easy and can be a unique experience. You can buy small live crickets (or other small insects) from almost any pest store and give your plant a proper meal. Place the bug in your plant’s leaf, and let your plant do the rest.
• Mutiple Propagation: Do you want to grow your plant collection? Consider propagating your Sundew. You can propagate it through seeds, after your plant produces flowers. A single flower stalk can produce a bunch of of flowers with hundreds of seeds. Also, leaf cuttings are an effective and fast method to clone your plant.
• Use for pest control: Have you struggle with gnat or fruit fly infestations? Sundews are effective bug controllers for tiny insects. Study the possibility of placing your plant strategically where it can have plenty of access to bugs and reduce the insect population in your home or green house.
• Make a bog garden: Sundews are great candidates for bog gardens. You can buy bog garden kits or make your own by combining many different types of sundews. Different shapes, colors, and textures are a perfect combination for a show-stopper bog garden. Also, consider mixing in other types of carnivorous plants, such as venus flytraps, Sarracenia, and Pitcher plants.

Make sure to check out my other articles on Drosera. They have a lot of helpful information:

• How to Properly Water a Sundew: Water Type, Tips, and Guide
• List of recommended products to grow carnivorous plants
• Should You Let Your Sundew Flower (Best Strategies From an Experienced Hobbyist)
• Drosera Capensis Care Instructions with Care Sheet
• Drosera Spatulata Care Instructions (with care sheet)